與精品咖啡邂逅的午後時光 - La Cuisson（上）

September 06, 2019 2 Comments

 如果你跟我一樣不太敢於嘗試黑咖啡，因為既定印象就是黑咖啡苦苦澀澀，加糖加奶才能蓋過這苦澀味；如果你跟我一樣每天必來一杯咖啡做為提神飲料，但總是點拿鐵、摩卡、卡布吉諾…

If you are like me, not trying black coffee because you've given the impression it's bitter which you would cover with sugar and milk.If you are like me, having a cup of coffee as a refreshing drink every day, but always go with Latte, Mocha, Cappuccino. 

那麼，你可能還沒有真正的認識一杯好咖啡。

Then you maybe haven't met the good coffee.

樸實的招牌，也許會讓你一不留意就錯過了它，

但一走進店裡，會讓你對咖啡世界有重新的認識。

The simple signboard of this coffee shop is too simple to catch your eyes, but once you walk into the store, you will have a new understanding of the coffee world. 

因為一杯好咖啡，不是用“喝”的，是用“品嚐”的；

Because a cup of good coffee is not only drinking it but tasting it.

 Jason是La Cuisson的老闆，絕對是一位帶你認識咖啡的好老師！幽默風趣又不失認真！

看他專注地沖泡虹吸式咖啡，我好奇:「咖啡的沖煮方式有義式濃縮、手沖單品、摩卡壺等，為什麼選擇了虹吸式咖啡呢？」

While Jason focused on brewing a cup of siphon coffee, I asked: "There're many ways to brew coffee, why do you choose siphon coffee?" 

Jason滿是笑容的說：「其實是因為我高中時在咖啡廳打工，接觸到的就是虹吸式咖啡，在那個年代，虹吸式咖啡當道，義式咖啡機主要盛行於歐洲與美國，直到1990年左右才流行至台灣。但當時義式咖啡無論是機器或是咖啡價位都很高，且自動化、標準化的咖啡就像是穿上了制服般，無法展現出每種咖啡豆獨特的風味，唯有手沖與虹吸式咖啡藉由咖啡師的技術才能將咖啡豆的甘甜與順口萃取出來。我玩虹吸式咖啡也已經30多年了，虹吸式咖啡有它的困難度，但當你能掌握住精髓後，你就能完美地體現出咖啡的特性。」

Jason replied with a big smile, "It's because while I was working in a coffee shop in high school, siphon coffee is what I learned. In that era, siphon coffee was the mainstream. Coffee machines were mainly popular in Europe and the United States. Espresso coffee was not popular until around 1990 in Taiwan. For espresso coffee, the price of a machine and a cup of coffee was very high. Not only the automatic and standardized coffee was like a uniform, but it couldn't show the unique flavor of each coffee bean. Only siphonic coffee can be used to extract the sweetness and smoothness of coffee beans by the technique of a barista. I have been playing siphon coffee for more than 30 years, it could be difficult to brew, however, when you can grasp the essence, you could perfectly present the characteristics of coffee."

『是咖啡香，也是花果香』

我拿起了Jason剛沖泡好的虹吸式咖啡，正想喝入口時，Jason說：「等等，你先聞聞咖啡的香味，是花香？是果香？還是堅果香呢？」

I lifted the cup of siphon coffee Jason's freshly brewed. About to drink, Jason said, "Wait, do you smell the aroma of coffee first, is it floral? Is it fruity? Or nutty?

我滿臉疑惑地看著手中這杯爪哇咖啡，鼻子湊近一聞：「真的有花香和果香味耶！」原來喝咖啡前輕輕的搖動杯子，讓香氣慢慢帶出，在咖啡達人眼中可是絕不能忽視的小小舉動啊！

 " I put my nose close to the cup of Java coffee in my hand and they're full of surprises. "There is really a floral and fruity aroma!" Whether it's the scent of Blue Mountains, Mandheling, or the extremely expensive civet coffee, the coffee shop is filled with the aroma of coffee.It can't be ignored by the coffee expert with such small act like gently shaking the cup before drinking coffee in order to slowly bring out the aroma.

突然想到我的日本朋友也非常愛喝咖啡，當時他也跟我說喜歡有花果香的咖啡豆，我那時還不明白呢。

Suddenly I thought that my Japanese friend also loved coffee very much. At that time, he also told me that he liked coffee beans with flowers and fruits. I didn't understand it at that time.

 Jason得心應手的搖著裝有八分滿咖啡的精緻咖啡杯，我亦步亦趨的學著，同時心想著: 「咖啡要趁熱喝呀，冷掉可能不好喝了。」Jason 似乎看出了我急於想把咖啡喝入口，突然說：「剛煮好的咖啡約有80多度，不適合直接入口，適合聞香，而且冷掉的咖啡風味會比熱的咖啡更好。」

I looked at the coffee from Ethiopian, wondering why my concept is so out-of-date. After the coffee temperature dropped slightly, Jason picked up the coffee on his hand and took a small sip. He said, "Like wine or tea tasting, after drinking the coffee, grin for a few seconds, then remember to suck in a small breath, close your lips, eyes, and then slowly exhale with your nose. Do you feel the aroma full of your nose and throat?" I tried, but I confused the steps and exhaled my mouth. I tried again and watched Jason exclaimed: "Oh my god! It's really fragrant! It feels different! The coffee is full of my nose!" After 20 to 30 minutes of coffee, the coffee still wandered in the nose, like I'm immersed in the coffee. Even after a few hours, it still felt like I just drank a cup of coffee!

我看著手中來自衣索比亞咖啡故鄉的咖啡，心想我的觀念還真是老一輩的觀念啊！待咖啡溫度微微下降後，Jason拿起手上的咖啡，小小的喝了一口，說：

 I looked at the coffee from Ethiopian, wondering why my concept is so out-of-date. After the coffee temperature dropped slightly, Jason picked up the coffee on his hand and took a small sip. He said, 

「如同品酒或品茶般，咖啡喝下去後，抿嘴幾秒，接著記得在口中吸進一小口氣，閉起嘴唇、眼睛，慢慢的用鼻子吐氣，有沒有感覺喉嚨深處以及鼻腔香氣十足？」

 "Like wine or tea tasting, after drinking the coffee, grin for a few seconds, then remember to suck in a small breath, close your lips, eyes, and then slowly exhale with your nose. Do you feel the aroma full of your nose and throat?"

我試了一次，但我將步驟搞混了，用嘴巴吐氣。再試了一次，看著Jason驚呼道：「天阿！太香了吧！這感覺好奇妙啊！咖啡香充滿著我的鼻腔！」在品完咖啡的20至30分鐘後，咖啡餘韻仍會繚繞在鼻腔中，彷彿是把自己浸泡在了咖啡當中，即使過了幾個小時，仍然會有著剛剛才喝了咖啡的錯覺啊！

I tried, but I confused the steps and exhaled my mouth. I tried again and watched Jason exclaimed: "Oh my god! It's really fragrant! It feels different! The coffee is full of my nose!" After 20 to 30 minutes of coffee, the coffee still wandered in the nose, like I'm immersed in the coffee. Even after a few hours, it still felt like I just drank a cup of coffee! 

甜的黑咖啡？

而一向不喝黑咖啡的我，突然意識到我剛剛喝下的咖啡，怎麼一點都不苦，反而是有著甘甜味，我疑惑的問Jason:「請問這杯咖啡有加糖嗎？」

I always said no to black coffee. However, it occurred to me that the coffee I drank is not bitter at all. Instead, it was sweet. I asked Jason, "Do you have sugar in this cup of coffee?"

Jason滿是笑意的說：「完全沒有！這是純黑咖啡呢！咖啡本身即帶有水果酸味，加了糖豈不是就破壞了風味。隨著時代的不同，早期的咖啡的確會讓人覺得無論是什麼沖泡方式，黑咖啡都有種說不出的苦澀，但隨著時間的演進，現在我們講究的是精品咖啡，精品咖啡的特性就如同葡萄酒，不同的產地、品種、莊園，還有不同的烘焙者技術，都會釀造出不同的口味。在這架構下，如同品茶、品酒，黑咖啡也都有著不同的個性，且從喝進時的喉韻至喝完後的尾韻，不同的過程，都有不同的感受。」

Jason is full of smile, "Nothing at all! This is pure black coffee! The coffee itself has a sour taste of fruit. Adding sugar will destroy the flavor. In different eras, early coffee does make people feel that whatever the brewing method is, black coffee has a kind of bitterness. But as time goes by, now we are paying attention to high-quality coffee. The characteristics of well-made coffee are like wine, different origins, varieties, manor, and baker's technology will result in a different flavor. Same as tea, wine tasting, black coffee also has different personalities. And the taste from when the start of drinking to the end, a different process could have a different feeling."

 

 我不敢置信的看著手中這杯在我以往的經驗裡，應該要是苦苦、酸酸的咖啡。

I'm amazed by the cup of coffee in my hand, which I expected should be bitter and sour.

在生豆時就要經過一層手工篩選，有些咖啡豆看得出瑕疵，但有些卻隱藏的很好，進入到烘焙階段後的再一次篩選時才能從其色澤看出差異，好的咖啡豆應是色澤均勻呈深褐色，且豆香十足。終於，可以將咖啡豆送入磨豆機中，磨出適合的粗細大小，這層層地把關才能造就出我眼前的這杯咖啡。 

There're several layers of manual screening from raw beans to baked beans. Some bad coffee beans can be identified from is color, but some are well-hidden, you can only see the difference from the color after they enter the baking stage. The fine baked coffee beans are evenly distributed dark brown. Finally, coffee beans are sent into the grinder and grind out the appropriate size. This layer after layer of the process made the cup of coffee in front of me.

 

如果要我說，這杯咖啡就像是魔法般的抹去了我對黑咖啡的既定印象。我才意會到，這不是魔術，而是Jason 研究咖啡20多年來的結晶啊!

This cup of coffee magically erased my established impression of black coffee. But then I realized this is not magic, it's Jason's effort on researching coffee for more than 20 years!

 

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